We want to give the people entering your house the right impression of you and your family by making sure that your entrance communicates your style, adds to your curb appeal, and reflects the great value of your house.
At Davinci Contractors Group Inc. we take care of our clients and their landscape areas by fixing small areas or the whole perimeter.
If your property needs of some fresh mulch, we are the guys for that. Call us if your existing gardens are damaged from construction work or overgrown and in need of a renovation, we are prepared for high-impact garden renovations for both residential and commercial properties. As each property is unique, it is best to contact us for a personalized quote and consultation.
Sometimes the damage comes from contractors, either from the truck that off-loaded the new shingles or the dumpster that was the repository for the old ones. The same happens to residential lawns, campus grounds and office parks during a big construction project.
Instead of worrying, put the energy to good use by planning a logical step-by-step recovery process. In most cases, the process is similar to a solid landscape design with more emphasis placed on evaluation and growing conditions.
First, resist the urge to start pulling out damaged plants and replacing them with new ones. Instead, step back and revisit the goals for the landscape. This is necessary and not a step backwards; it will pay off in the long run. In other words, it’s essential that you have a clear picture of the intent of the site. This requires putting together program statements.
Gathering information via the soil test report is one thing, fixing it is another. If a soil test report indicates a deficiency in one or more areas, modification and replacement are options. The more extreme the shortcoming, the more likely that replacement is called for. If there’s doubt regarding replacement, incorporating high-quality compost is a good first step. Neutral, high-organic matter compost will help solve several problems including poor infiltration, water holding capacity and nutrient deficiency. Mix it with the existing poor soil rather than merely placing it on top to avoid creating layers of soil with different characteristics. When this occurs, water will percolate readily to the interface of the two layers and stop moving downwards, causing a perched water table, which is a highly undesirable outcome.
For example, you would note a silver maple tree with root damage in the inventory, while observations regarding overall tree health, specific nutrient deficiencies and possible pest problems would round out the initial consideration.
While few of us can draw finished architectural renderings, everyone can draw circles and ovals to create simple bubble diagrams to identify hardscapes, trees, shrubs and masses of plant material. There’s much value in identifying where the turf, ground covers, trees and shrubs will be as a first step in choosing replacement plants.
When looking at the possibilities, consider what could be in addition to what was. For example, simple sidewalk arrangements could be configured to permit better landscape growth following construction. Match the bubble diagrams to the program statements or goals for the landscape.
Once the soil replacement/modification has been done, existing vegetation is a consideration. In some cases, plants may have been removed and stored/stockpiled in a temporary nursery location before the soil was worked. Before they are reinstalled, check the irrigation system for leaks, coverage, distribution uniformity and overall efficiency. Chances are good that changes from turf to ground covers or vice-versa have created the need for a retrofit in terms of spray heads, run times and other equipment. Once the irrigation system has been revamped, stockpiled plants can be replanted, which will lower recovery costs.
Now it’s time to choose replacement plants. Using the bubble diagrams as a guide, consider the height and spread, color, bloom sequence, disease resistance and other features of the many plant options. As you wade through the choices, use right plant, right place (RPRP) as a guiding principle.
At this point in the recovery, especially if others have provided input, there’s a tendency to start mentioning specific plant materials for the site. However, that comes later in the process.
First, start determining what exactly took place and investigate the following:
Since most construction damage issues deal with a worsening of the soil, start with soil tests. Sketch on paper or paint on the ground where construction damage took place. Next, pull soil samples in the unaffected area, perhaps 4 or 5 feet from the damaged area and a few in the transitional space between the two areas. Take samples where you expect the roots of the new or existing plants to be. In most cases, 3 to 5 inches for turfgrass, 4 to 8 inches for perennials/ground covers and 2 feet for trees and shrubs. If in doubt, contact the soil-testing laboratory for specific instructions.
Construction damaged sites tend to have deficiencies in soil organic matter content, aeration, fertility and drainage. Desirable ranges for these are 3 to 5 percent organic matter, 25 to 40 PPM of phosphorous and 150 to 200 PPM of potassium. Depending on the soil type, percentage of clay/sand/silt and the pH, these numbers can be adjusted upwards or downwards slightly. Consult with the soil-testing laboratory if the report indicates data outside of the desirable ranges. The same is true for pH. Most turfs and ornamental plants grow best in neutral to slightly acid soils, with exceptions for acid-loving plants and ones that prefer basic soils.
Stone work is always part of our landscaping jobs as it provides balance to the design of our projects. We offer a variety of stonework solutions with a high standard of quality.
For access, function, and to create transitions throughout your landscape. A good and functional walkway or driveway sets the way to create harmonious transitions for your landscape design, for that we use hard paving such as interlocking bricks, flagstones, or natural stone. Professional advice is given to aesthetics, space, soil conditions, and drainage.
The plastic pavers edge acts as a wrap around each stone that got to be fixed. Got to trimmed it to the proper size and set it in place using 10″ spikes that then hammered into the compacted gravel. The spikes sit underneath the stone so make sure your dry fit everything prior to securing so you know exactly where to place the edging.
Use black mulch to cover the exposed dirt which, will do two things, 1) cosmetically enhance the curb appeal and camouflage the black pavers edge and 2) provide some protection to the exposed dirt and stop some of the erosion from occurring.
The last step is to fill the joint lines with polymeric sand which will not only hold everything in place but add the finishing touch. The stones must be completely dry (not just the surface but all the way through) before you can add the sand. Be sure there is not going to rain in the forecast for the next two days.
Most people will not take the time to patch concrete curbs on their property when they require repair. However, if you do make the effort to keep the curb in your yard, garden, or driveway looking new and clean, it can greatly detract from the appearance of your home, as well as the overall aesthetic, or “curb appeal” of your entire property.
Additionally, patching a concrete curb is a relatively easy task, that requires little experience. Read on for a brief overview of how to patch a concrete curb in a few easy steps.
STEP 1 Prepare the Area Begin by clearing the curb of any excess debris and other items. Remove any plants, dirt and other items that may have set into the concrete in the area in which you’re planning to patch. Before you begin, protect yourself by wearing a mask and safety goggles. You should also wear clothing that covers as much of your body as possible.
STEP 2 Break Off Loose Concrete Next, use the sledgehammer and chisel to break away any pieces of concrete that are loose from the area in which you’ll work. You want to leave the solid piece of concrete remaining below, but get rid of any pieces that have cracks in them. Dispose of the concrete pieces in the appropriate area. Use the heavy-duty steel wool to scrub down the concrete that you’ve left on the curb. This will help to remove any concrete dust and other debris that may have built up as you worked.
STEP 3 Wash Down the Concrete Use the garden hose to wash down the concrete and allow it to sit for 2 days. This not only serves to clean the concrete, but it helps to make it to more readily accept the concrete bond adhesive that you’ll use to patch the curb.
STEP 4 Apply Bond Agent and Patch Use the paintbrush to apply the bond adhesive evenly over the surface of the concrete. Before the adhesive dries, mix up the concrete patch mix, according to the instructions on the packaging. Use the trowel to layer on an initial layer of concrete patch. Be sure to press the patch material into the existing concrete curb. Wait 1/2 hour, and then repeat, continuing to layer on concrete patch material until the patch material matches the shape of the pre-existing curb. Be sure to scrape off any excess patch material before it has a chance to dry.
STEP 5 Cover the Curb cover the curb area that you’ve worked in with a plastic tarp. Use ties or weights to hold the tarp down, and allow it to sit for 5 days, before removing it.
We’ll nail your next project, because nobody wants a screw-up!