Floors

You can choose characteristics such as the price, color, waterproof capacity or eco-friendly. We will then ask you for measurements to offer a free quote. We always recommend upgrading the baseboards of the area if possible.

STEP ONE. PREP YOUR PROJECT AREA. Remove your baseboards and pull up your carpet (if you have it). Be careful when tearing out tack strips with sharp nails around the perimeter of the room. It’s important that your sub-floor is smooth and flat so that when you lay your laminate flooring, it can be flush without bending or “slapping” when you walk over it. If there are perceptible dips or depressions, use a leveling compound to get your floor level.

STEP 2. PRE-YOUR SUB-FLOOR. One of the great benefits of laminate flooring is it can be installed over any surface, including vinyl, concrete, ceramic, and plywood. That’s the sub-floor. Before you start your installation, free your space from obstructions such as staples, nails, dust, and debris. Throughout your removal and installation, wearing knee protection will also avoid any aches and pains later.

Note: If you have concrete flooring, make sure to add a dry core panel as your sub-floor, plus a moisture barrier. Adding wood sub-flooring over concrete will help to allow air circulation underneath and will warm up the floor.

STEP 3. INSTALL UNDERLAYMENT. Underlayment is a layer of material that is placed above your sub-flooring and below your laminate floor. This is a necessary step when installing any type of flooring, as it helps absorb noise and smooth out any sub-floor imperfections. Some laminate flooring has underlayment pads pre-attached for convenience.

A foam underlayment can work as a moisture barrier to prevent cupping, gapping, and squeaking due to expansion.  Remove the sticky tape strip on the side (most underlayment should have it), and press it down to secure it in place on the floor.

STEP 4. READY TO START.  Randomize Planks & Add Spacers. Carefully inspect all your planks in bright light throughout the installation looking for any defects.

Also, throughout the installation, choose planks from more than one package at a time. This will even out colour variation and avoid too many light or dark planks next to each other.

Starting at the longest wall, add spacers against the wall to create a small gap that allows for expansion and contraction.

STEP 5. INSTALLING THE FIRST ROW. First row planks should have the tongue side facing the wall. Always allows a ⅜ in. to ⅝ in. gap at each end for floor expansion.

Place the first boards against the spacers. Each laminate flooring plank has a tongue and groove that fit together and “float” above the underlayment. Stagger them at least 12 in. at a time.

It is very important to build a solid foundation of rows to start all flooring installations. Usually comprised of four rows, these foundation rows make for a solid and secure workspace for the remainder of planks to adhere to.

STEP 6. CUSTOM CUT. If you encounter barriers such as door frames, vents, or cabinets, each will require different techniques and tools to address. Straight cuts around cabinets can be managed by chop saws. However, cuts around pipers required a jigsaw.

Tip: Use a paper template for complicated cuts around obstacles like pipes in a kitchen or bathroom.

STEP 7. INSTALLING THE FINAL ROW. With one final row to go, measure the distance between the wall and the last row, minus the expansion gap. Now you know the width needed for the final row. When marking the cut line on your plank, it’s very important to not measure from the tongue. Cut the plank along the line and, if needed, insert the last row with a pull bar.

STEP 8. FINISHING TOUCHES. Caulk & Trimming. If you’re installing laminate flooring to your bathroom, apply silicone caulk around your tub, pipes, or toilet for a water-tight seal.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing transition strips and floor moulding.

If you installed a separate underlayment, trim the excess from the perimeter around the floor. Finish it off by attaching your baseboard moulding to the wall, not the floor.

An engineered wood floor is constructed of layers of both hardwood and plywood, where solid hardwood is a solid piece of wood with no layers. … Engineered hardwood construction has durable, high-performance qualities. It is constructed with multi-layers of wood; each layer is positioned in a different direction.

You can’t walk on new flooring for 24 hours, so plan your work accordingly.  You may have to leave a walking strip bare and complete the flooring the following day. Check all boards for warping and defects. Purchase a trowel with teeth for applying glue if you’re using the glue-down method. Wear safety glasses and latex gloves.

Mix planks from different containers to avoid patches of color.  Stains and finishes can vary from batch to batch and mixing pieces from different boxes creates a more unified look.

Floating Engineered Hardwood

Before installing a floating engineered hardwood floor, follow the same preparation steps mentioned above, including underlayment and laying out spacers to maintain the expansion gap specified by the manufacturer.

STEP 1 Install the first row using wood glue on all plank ends, arranged with the tongue facing the center of the room.

STEP 2 When installing additional rows, work from left to right. Apply wood glue to the tongue and groove seams, then connect the pieces, carefully folding and tapping the new piece to rest on the subfloor. Immediately wipe up any glue that squeezes through the boards.

Note: Some engineered hardwood flooring products have a click-lock design. These do not require glue for a floating installation, unlike tongue and groove products.

Good to Know Use small pieces of painter’s tape randomly over each new seam to secure your work as you move. This provides additional stability to the floor as the glue dries.

STEP 3 Measure from board (not tongue) to wall and subtract the expansion gap to know the correct cut for the last row of boards. Then, insert the last row of flooring, taking care to leave the proper extension gap between the last piece and the wall.

STEP 4 Remove the painter’s tape after 8-10 hours, but avoid heavy foot traffic and furniture placement for 24 hours.

STEP 5 Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers. Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wall, not the floor.

Staple-Down Installation over a Plywood Subfloor

If you’re working with a staple-down engineered hardwood floor, you’ll follow the same preparation steps as above, including laying spacers around the room’s perimeter to maintain the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap.

STEP 1 For the first row, pre-drill and nail with finishing nails about 1 inch from the wall at 3- to 4-inch intervals.  Use a nail punch and fill the holes with wood filler.

STEP 2 For the second and third rows, drive staples every 3 to 4 inches at a 45-degree angle, just above the tongue using a pneumatic staple gun.  Staples must not interfere with the tongue-and-groove fit of additional boards.

STEP 3 Your last one or two rows will be face-nailed, as your pneumatic stapler will be difficult to operate in a small space.  Pre-drill the holes and use a nail punch to countersink the nails.  Fill the holes with matching wood filler to camouflage the marks.

STEP 4 Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers.  Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wall.

 Nail-down Installation over a Plywood Subfloor

With a nail-down engineered hardwood floor, follow the same subfloor preparation steps as above, including underlayment and laying spacers around the room’s perimeter to maintain the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap. This installation method is identical to staple-down, only the fastener and fastening tool differ.  Reference the imagery for staple-down installation for guided assistance.

STEP 1 For your first row, face the tongue toward the center of the room, pre-drilling and nailing with finishing nails about 1 inch in from the wall.  Pre-drilling saves the wood from cracking and makes for an easier job.  Then, use a nail punch to countersink the nails and fill the hole with matching wood filler.  Work at a 3- to 4-inch interval along the length of the board.

STEP 2 For the second and third rows, drive the nails at an angle, just above the tongue, using a pneumatic nail gun. Countersink the nails to avoid interrupting the tongue and groove engagement in the following rows.

STEP 3 Because it’s difficult to use the nailer in small spaces, face-nail the last one or two rows.

STEP 4 Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers.  Then nail the baseboards and shoe mouldings to the wall, not the floor

Glue-down Installation over a Concrete Subfloor

STEP 1 Lay spacers along the walls to create the expansion gap specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.

STEP 2 Pour a small amount of glue on the concrete – about the width of two or three boards – and use the trowel to scrape the glue and drips clean away from the bucket.

STEP 3 Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and spread the glue – make sure the teeth of the trowel touch the concrete.  Continue to spread glue in small sections; you only want to work on two or three rows at a time.

STEP 4 Using the straightest boards, lay the first row along the guideline you created when prepping the subfloor with the tongue side of the board facing toward the room.

STEP 5 Fit the second row’s groove on the first row’s tongue and tap the board into place using a rubber mallet and block. STEP 6 Stagger the boards at least 6 inches from each end to add strength to the floor.  You may have to cut the first board using a circular or miter saw with a blade designed for engineered wood flooring.

When you run into columns or doorways, cut the planks to fit on both sides, taking care to maintain the expansion gap. Good to Know Use a cleaner or special floor wipes designed for engineered wood flooring to immediately remove any glue that may have squeezed through the boards.

STEP 7 When you reach the end of the floor, stop and leave enough space to comfortably exit the room without stepping on the new floor. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. If you need to finish installing the flooring, follow the same process until you reach the last row.

STEP 8 Measure the distance between the wall and the board – not the tongue – and subtract the expansion gap.  Cut (or rip) the last row.  If the boards are less than one inch wide, apply glue to the tongue of the installed boards and slide the last row into place using a pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to protect your wall.

Once your new floor is complete, install transition pieces and remove the spacers.  Then nail the baseboards and shoe moldings to the wall.

THE STEP TO INSTALL A TILE ARE

Preparing to Install Floor Tile. First, make sure you have prepared the subfloor properly before you begin laying tile.

Before beginning, remove tiles from the different boxes and randomly mix them to ensure that minor color differences don’t form an unwanted pattern in your new floor. Keep in mind that floor tiles should be laid with the first tile centered in the middle of the floor, working onward from that.

Before you start, remember that using the correct trowel and mortar is critical to a successful tile project. Floor or wall, indoors or out, and tile type and size are all factors

STEP 1 Mix unmodified thinset mortar in a bucket to the consistency recommended by the manufacturer.

STEP 2 Starting at the reference line cross in the middle of the room, spread the mortar with the thin side of the trowel in areas about 3 feet by 3 feet. Make sure that the reference lines are not obscured.

STEP 3 Using the notched side of the trowel held at a 45-degree angle, apply and comb additional mortar in one straight direction, not swirl patterns, to ensure uniform application.

STEP 4 Remove excess mortar with the trowel and return it to the bucket.

Installing Floor Tile

STEP 1 Lay the first tile square at the crossing of the reference lines. For best results, lightly press and twist the tiles to get full contact between the mortar and the tile. This also helps to set the tile in the mortar.

STEP 2 Place tile spacers at the edges of the first tile.

STEP 3 Continue laying tiles in the same manner along the reference lines, then add spacers.

STEP 4 Once you have completed a work section, use a rubber mallet and carpenter’s level to level the tile.

STEP 5 Remove any excess mortar with a damp sponge.

STEP 6 Continue applying thinset mortar and laying the tile in small sections in the same manner. Make adjustments as needed so the tiles are aligned straight, especially along the longest dimension of the room where variations will show.

STEP 7 Apply thinset mortar and set the cut tile in position. Add tile spacers as needed.

STEP 8 Allow the thinset mortar to dry for at least 24 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer before continuing. To allow for expansion, leave a 1/4-inch gap between the wall and tile.

Cutting and Fitting the Tile

As you near cabinets, doorways, walls and other flooring stops, trim tiles as needed for installation. Use a tile cutter for small, straight cuts. Use a tile saw or wet saw (both rentable), if necessary, for cutting numerous or thick tiles. For making curved cuts, you can use tile nippers. If the tile is too thick for nippers, try the following method:

STEP 1 Mark the curve on the tile.

STEP 2 Make relief cuts with a tile saw.

STEP 3 Snap off the pieces with tile nippers.

STEP 4 Use a file to smooth down the edges. Use a tile edging strip along carpet, wood flooring and other entry ways. Just spread the thin set, then set the strip in the mortar. The tile will hold it in place.

Grouting a Tile Floor

Remove the tile spacers from between tiles – Mix the grout following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure you use the proper water-to-mix ratio for a paste-like consistency.  (If you have well water, purchase distilled water to mix the grout -Apply the grout into the joints, then diagonally across the joints with a rubber grout float, removing as much excess as possible -Allow the grout to dry for 20 minutes or as recommended by the manufacturer –  Wipe the grout lines in a circular motion with a sponge and water to set the grout just below the tile surface. Follow up with a grout haze remover to clean the tile –  Once the grout is installed, avoid heavy traffic on the floor for at least 72 hours to allow the grout to dry – Wait approximately three weeks for the grout to cure completely before sealing the grout – Apply a grout sealer to the joints following the manufacturer’s instructions – Install any trim work or transition strips.